Humble Grape in Theberton Street – intimate and vibey
IT’s not a controversial opinion that one thing Islington doesn’t need is another wine bar. They have sprung up on every street lamp-lit corner, home to the caricature of the small plates-eating, orange-wine swilling north London young professional.
And understandably they have indeed sometimes become a source of derision, with their pretentious owners or customers as the butt of the joke.
Stumble into Humble Grape, tucked just off Upper Street, and you can find however a wine bar done simply, and done well.
It’s cosy, and unpretentious. It feels like the moment when you’ve just got home to your parents’ living room after a long train journey, and your mum puts a bottle of wine on the table. You don’t really care what it tastes like, you’re just happy to be there.
For those who don’t know their Chablis from their Chardonnay, it’s perfect. They don’t expect you to know anything – or act like you know anything.
The service was excellent, attentive but not pushy, and wine that was recommended to us was crisp and drinkable.
We skipped the nibbles, and tried a couple of the small plates. I always feel like you can’t go too wrong with burrata and tomatoes – but the way this one melted was especially good. The cauliflower bites were crispy and sweet, but could have maybe done with a extra spicy kick.
For mains, I opted for seabass, which was flakey and salty, accompanied by a rich roast pepper tapenade and fresh pea puree.
My dining partner’s steak, he said, was cooked well but partnered with a chimichurri sauce that was a little underwhelming.
The best thing we ate may have been the last: a gooey chocolate fondant that rounded off the evening perfectly. The cheese board, however, looked enviable.
Even on a Wednesday there were plenty of people who had popped in for a quick glass, making it intimate and vibey.
Humble Grape wants to be a place for the neighbourhood, a spot where you can come any time of the week. On Monday you can drink any wine at the price it normally is to take-away, and on the other days there are plenty of events and deals, from wine-tastings to roasts.
The wine is definitely worth it – ranging from about £7-£12 for a glass of something really good. The food is not at a “let’s just grab something here” price, with mains around £20-£23 needing to be ordered alongside a side or a starter.
Good for a catch-up with a small group of friends, or for a date.
Humble Grape
11-13 Theberton Street, N1 0QY
020 3904 4480
www.humblegrape.co.uk/islington
