Gianduja chocolate and hazelnut budino with gelato

THE NEWEST Italian in Islington has taken everything we thought we knew about pasta and elevated it to a whole new level.

Noci, on Islington Green, has replaced Cote in the prime spot. From the moment you walk into the glass fronted space, you are transported to a modern, Mediterranean paradise of terracotta tones, soft lighting and light wooden furnishings.

The menu – created by ex-Bancone chef, Louis Korovilas – is both innovative and familiar. The seasonal ingredients and surprising combinations yield delightful results. There was an excellent range of vegetarian options, but there could have been more choices for vegans.

We started with a seasonal spritz made with watermelon, rosemary and a surprise liquor, served with the focaccia and olives from Sicily.

For starters we had the burrata on a bed of wild garlic leaves and hazelnuts, charred asparagus, artichoke, onion and ewe’s milk cheese salad and leek, walnut and taleggio torta frita.

Next, we tried the cacio e pepe, spring silk handkerchiefs – by far the stand out dish – and the confit tomato gnocchetti.

Finally, we were brought the gianduja chocolate and hazelnut budino, which was out of this world – light, airy yet very rich in flavour.

The only thing that needed improvement was the gelato – the spiced orange and bay leaf flavours were slightly overwhelming.

At the higher end of a reasonable price point, the restaurant is the perfect choice for a special family meal, date night or outing with friends.

• Noci, 4-6 Islington Grn, London N1 2XA, https://nocirestaurant.co.uk/