Imaani and her band at The Wet Fish, where there’s a passion for creating the feel of a bohemian underground jazz bar

THE Wet Fish needs no introduction. When asked the best spot to eat with friends, Emma Thompson declared this “local independent” a “great place for brunch”, urging her fans to “go there”.

And so I find myself stepping out of the numb damp of London’s winter into the uplit glow of Wet Fish’s signature monthly Music Dinners.

Romantic tables for two are nestled, cabaret-style, around an intimate stage. Alas, I am eating alone.

There is such a feast for the eyes that this is no hardship – beautifully restored Art Deco wall tiles tell the history of Wet Fish as a fishmongers, from which intriguing local artwork hangs. Soft foliage crowns an impressive bar, while mid-century accents can be spotted throughout the restaurant. I sip on a delightfully oaky Old Fashioned, having forgotten that I’d ordered my drink in the haze of taking in my surroundings.

Of course, the star of the show is Imaani, who holds court with her band, delivering impressive soul and warmth topped with good humour.

It’s easy to forget that this is a restaurant, as waiters glide between close-knit tables in a near-choreographed waltz, serving with impressive efficiency and a great deal of friendliness.

Wet Fish’s new owner, Payam, tells me that many of his staff are actors and creatives – it’s clear that there’s a passion for creating the feel of a bohemian underground jazz bar on nights like these.

Payam has been at pains to retain the heart of this local institution, which opens for coffee and brunch through to two dinner sittings on performance nights.

High-quality food has been core to Wet Fish’s success over more than 20 years, and the culinary expertise of his team is on display tonight.

They are rightly known for providing elevated bistro staples, such as the pumpkin soup, which is richly caramelised and nutty. It’s difficult to split attention between Imaani and the tangy coconut curry, which can be ordered with perfectly cooked fresh fish.

As the evening wraps up, Imaani invites us to thank the chefs, who receive a deserved round of applause, visible from their hatch above the bar.

There’s something vivid and special about this place, which evokes an aged elegance without stuffiness.

It’s no surprise, therefore, that Payam is bringing Wet Fish No2 to Primrose Hill this spring. If this new sibling can encapsulate the quality and freehanded grace of its fishmonger-cum-lounge sister, it can expect plenty more high-flying endorsements.

The Wet Fish
242 West End Lane, NW6 1LG
020 7443 9222
www.thewetfishcafe.co.uk/